poetry

underland

underland

I’m not ready to be
underground
unprepared to enter
the underworld
my brief visits so far
have been uncomfortable
shot through with wonders, yes,
but also the oppressive feel
of too little air
and too much rock
too much thick impenetrable dark

in Ireland we descended below dolmans
in the white-grey lime of the Burren
walked a muddy path
to an echoing room
with frozen rock icicles
amazing – yes
magical – no
it had the cold feel
of forbidden

back in the day
when bat noses were black
we found our way into
each of Boulder’s caves:
Harmon, Mallory, Boy Scout, Davy Crockett, Cavernous Sinus
(some now gated with metal grilles –
one more pleasure our sons will never know,
but a worthy concession to the bats)
(also somewhere up Clear Creek Canyon)
small rooms with graffiti
and the soot of illicit fires
spaces more likely to hide transients than the wild
they still gave cool shade, otherworldly echo,
the sense of adventurous exploring

then Caribou Mine
Tom Hendricks’s baby
open to the public now and then
the real deal, silver and gold still pulled out
of veins that once fed
the ghost town by the same name
we used to see him in Nederland
pale blue overalls and no shirt
hair cut by his own hand
he dominated the hand drilling contest
at Miners’ Days
a place industry and fantasy merged
jackhammers slowly turned the mountain to dust
it was all business

later Lenin’s tomb
red letters on black background
silent young men with Kalashnikovs
at each crowded landing
I gulped in fear
whenever it was
my turn to sink lower

at Carlsbad Caverns, finally overwhelming awe
we walked through wonders all day
even came back for more
I kept saying It’s just like Journey to the Center of the Earth!
(later I learned why –
some scenes were filmed there)
still the smell of the entrance swallows
made us hold our breath
and question our choices

next the Bat Cave (Gua Kampret)
black cool in the Sumatran swelter
sometimes green jewels broke open
across its uneven roof
reminding us where we were right then
unseen poisonous creatures
around every dark bend

lastly, most spectacularly,
the glowworm grotto
blue dangling orbs
laying fanciful traps
wherever our barque drifted
Te Anau fairy tales sparkled
we can always come home here

still, I’m not ready
to lie quiet
in some shallow rectangle now
with no view of sky sun stars
I need more time
more air
more earth
more days

photography

Indonesia West of Wallace’s Line

As you may know, Wallace’s Line is the line which (in terms of flora and fauna) separates Java, Bali, Sumatra, and Borneo and their outlying islands from Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara, Timor, and the Moluccas. West of the line we visited Sumatra, Java, and Bali. Here are photos from that segment of our trip.

Our first stop in Sumatra was the village of Bukit Lawang, where we stayed at Green Hills Guest Lodge. Our first visitor was this Silver Leaf Monkey.
Bukit Lawang is situated right by a river, and a family of Crab-eating Macaques showed up on the opposite bank.
The day after we arrived we wen on a walk to see the famous Sumatran Orangutans, (Critically Endangered) and immediately saw this young male.
This baby orangutan seemed extremely proficient at climbing and foraging, here eating the orange fruit pictured.
After seeing the first orangutans we passed through a “carload” of Thomas Leaf Monkeys, some with babies.
The star bird of the hike was this Great Argus, a type of pheasant closely related to the peafowl. It boasts strangely elongated wing and tail feathers to aid in its spectacular display, and although this male did not display, it was still astounding.
This zoomed-out picture can offer a better perspective on the seemingly stretched body of this amazing bird.
This was one of the highlights of the hike: a fully grown male orangutan, sitting in a tree.
This is a White-handed Gibbon, one of the several we saw. Back at Bukit Lawang several times we heard the song of gibbons, a truly spectacular sound. This one was with several others.
Seen at the same time as the other gibbon, here you can see a baby’s head and hands.
Near Bukit Lawang we went to a cave system inhabited by many bats. This is one of the residents.
We had also signed up for a “jungle trek” which meant staying at another spot for a night before starting. There we got great views of this Little Spiderhunter, a relative of the honeyeaters.
Near the beginning of the trek we came across another troop of Thomas’s Leaf Monkeys. This is a mother and a baby.
This squirrel was Cedar’s favorite animal we saw on the trek, and he made me put it in this post.
For me the highlight was this White-crowned Hornbill (classified as globally Endangered), seen after our night camping. It is rare and only occasionally seen in Sumatra.
On the way back from our camp we came across this Diard’s Trogon, the bright red bird in the middle of the photo.
Just before we got back to the lodge we saw this Blue-throated Bee-eater, one of the star birds of the trek.
Just before going back to Bukit Lawang we saw this bright red and yellow Banded Woodpecker from the jungle lodge.
Before leaving Bukit Lawang we got great views of this Crested Serpent-eagle calling and displaying for seemingly no reason.
Our next stop was Lake Toba, where this Eurasian Tree Sparrow provided the perfect opportunity for a more artistic photo.
Also at Lake Toba we saw this White-breasted Waterhen walk past our table at a restaurant.
After Toba we stayed at Rimba Ecolodge on the west coast. This is a Stork-billed Kingfisher, one of the most distinctive birds we saw.
Here you can see some of the strange geometric patterns found in the some of the coral of the area.
This is one of the amazing sunsets we saw at Rimba.
Since we had to fly through Java to get to Bali we stopped at Yogyakarta and saw the famous Buddhist temple Borobudur. Here we found a carving of a chicken standing on top of a temple.
We also found this amazing carving of a Green Peafowl, the lesser known relative of the Indian one. Green Peafowls mainly live in mainland Asia, but there is a small population on Java.
Borobudur’s most famous attraction are the sitting Buddhas inside stupas lining the edge of the top level. Since the Buddhas are mostly enclosed, I just got a picture of the eye of one.
And here’s CEDAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Our first stop in Bali was Ubud, where we went on a bird walk around the rice fields and few forests of the city. This is a Cattle Egret in a rice paddy.
One of our target species on the walk was this Javan Kingfisher, only found in Java and Bali.
Near the end of the walk we saw this snake attack a flying lizard and eat it. Here it is preparing to strike.
Later in Bali we went snorkeling off of Pulau Menjangan, an island where we saw a herd of deer resting under a building.
This Whimbrel we saw on the beach of the island. It is a type of curlew, famous for their long, curving bills.
After snorkeling we went on a walk to dinner where we saw this Racquet-tailed Treepie, a specialty bird of the region.
The sunset over the mangroves in West Bali was spectacular.
The reason for us going to west Bali was because of West Bali National Park, and the reason I wanted to go there was because of a single bird. The Javan Banded Pitta you see here is not the special one but was seen in the beginning of the desired birding trip.
This Green Junglefowl is also not the one we were looking for, although it was high on my list of birds I wanted to see.
This is the bird I had been waiting for. This is a Bali Starling, Bali’s ONLY endemic bird, Critically Endangered with a population estimate of only 50 left in the wild. It is so valuable on the black market pet trade that a captive breeding center was once robbed at gunpoint just for these birds! We saw around 17!!!!!!!
This pair of starlings sat and posed for us for almost ten minutes!
Here you can see the wispy crest of the starlings.
This starling posed for just a moment when I got this photo, then flew away.
This Island Collared-dove is the Indonesian equivalent of the Eurasian Collared-dove, widely introduced in North America.
After the forest where we saw the starlings we went to a plantation where we got this Chestnut-headed Bee-eater.
The final segment of our birding trip in Bali was going to the shrimp farms, where we saw this Small Blue Kingfisher.
After Bali we crossed over to Java again and went to Baluran National Park to look for the Endangered Green Peafowl. Here is an Oriental Pied Hornbill seen in the park
We eventually saw three peafowl, two male and one female. This male came the closest, and gave us amazing views. Most of the global population are found in mainland Asia, but there is an isolated group found in Java.
Here you can seen part of the famous train that male peafowl have. This was either a young male or something had attacked because it was missing most of its train feathers.
This is a fully grown male peafowl, with the completely developed train of iridescent green ocelli feathers.
This is the same male peafowl.
Baluran is also famous for its herds of water buffalo and deer.
poetry

explaining hot dogs to Europeans

explaining hot dogs to Europeans

hot dogs
plump taut hot flesh
nestled in warm soft bread bun
studded with red (tomatoes) and white (onions)
and a ribbon of ketchup
(not toe-mat-oh sauce)
crack the sound of the bat
the waft of steam from the warm bath
from which they’re drawn
or the crisp black stripes of caramelized skin
the hot red sizzle and smoke of the grill
or the woodsmoke mixed with cedar duff
of camping in the northwest
the hot packet of meat comfortably warming your palms
on a cold spring Little League night
the sinful carnivorous pleasure
of the hot dog joint
in Boulder’s sanctimonious heart
Smith’s spicy thick hot dogs
a taste of my childhood
made by my neighbor/friend’s family for generations
Sara’s – the venerable greasy spoon at the peninsula
we’d brave the line then hurry
to mix hot dog, ice cream, soda, sand
with sun sinking into the lake
the first time I tasted a Hebrew National dog,
considering converting
spring training in Phoenix
watching the Cubs
learning from Chicago masters
to add tomato and onion

There’s nothing quite like an American hot dog
(if you’re American
and eat beef).

poetry

summoning a sea turtle

summoning a sea turtle

Dear Mr. Turtle
come fly underwater
with your solid scaled wings
and your fine gentle beak

soar over the coral
the triggerfish and wrasses
the brittlestars and clams

flap your flippers
and sail our way
to the three pale fish
who wait breathing anxiously
for your sweet arrival

Dear Mr. Turtle
please gift us with your presence
during this brief visit to your home
half a world away from ours
and we will hum you a lullaby –
all that we have to give
that might suit your watery ways

poetry

under mosquito netting

under mosquito netting

inside the sheer wisp of fine netting
each outside light goes stretched and starburst
until sleep lets us surrender
to a false sense of safety

we enter and our mindset shifts
waking >> sleeping
apprehensive >> accepting
everyday >> romantic
common >> exotic
exposed >> protected
(partially)

each time I tug one gap closed
another springs in its place
impossible to fully close out
jungle

poetry

September: Equinox

September: Equinox

an equinox with no pull of fall
this year there’ll be no
slowing-down shedding-time
no long inward-turning impulse

pictures of home bring yellow and reds
but more the sense we’re moving
at a different rate
to a different clock
not just 13 hours ahead
we’re in a time without seasons
without the rhythms our bodies know
chasing summer
while the people we love
watch for frost

poetry

paddy pop

paddy pop

translucent spring green
pierced by a ripple of white
egret elegance

poetry

power

power

the middle-aged men
consumed by their taste for power
suck the color out of each scene
each scarlet hibiscus = antivenom
undoing the drain of girls and beer

meanwhile I watch the smooth pewter waves
trying to go flat as glass
straining to tell them something

those lost boys don’t yet know
the power of submission
of turning their bodies
to catch the divine breath
that still would blow them toward
the Happy Isles
or the relief of unclenching their fists
from the executioner’s staff
and refusing to torture
one more soul

poetry

Danau Toba Dream

Danau Toba Dream

the lake shushes us to sleep
a sweet sloppy sighing lullaby

the whole black-blue basin jiggles
while this big world spins

another dark night streaked with
columns of staccato horizontal
dock- and boat-lines

and the unseen air is as heavy
with smoke and water
as a Varanasi ghat

mimpi indah, Samosir

poetry

the river grows

the river grows

at lunch the friendly waiter explains
in a month from now
when the rains come
water will cover
all these rocks

we murmur in surprise
sit placidly on the same rocks
after our meal
retire to our room
and then the rain starts
slow at first
uneven pings that could be monkeys
then the usual short steady afternoon shower
then it changes, drives down in pounding lines
the whole scene a gray blur of
air displaced by water
shingles shoot past the open woven window
and the stream beside the lodge
becomes a chocolate surge
it pounds on like this all afternoon
until I wonder
what’s a cyclone like?
then I remember to check the river –
the rocks are gone, a month early
each one washed by
the galloping white waves studding
thick brown ropes of river
racing away from the rain
bringing the mountain down with it

Thanks to Cedar for helping to type this one up!